Hehe Huating uses the popular fabric Ro in the Song Dynasty

“Hehe Huating” uses the popular fabric “Ro” in the Song Dynasty
The emperor’s armor, the phoenix crown, and the king’s armor, a group of armor crews dressed up in many ancient paintings.  The screenplays of the Tang and Qing dynasties are popular on the screen, and the recently broadcast “Hering Garden Pavilion” extends the perspective to the “unpopular” Song Dynasty.Fang Sizhe, director of costume styling for the show, said in an exclusive interview with Sauna Nightnet that “He He Hua Ting” uses Song as a reference in costume styling, and focuses on simple, elegant and exquisite costume styling characteristics.The Song Dynasty advocated red, and the most striking color in the play was red. All other colors are relatively elegant, and the saturation is relatively low.The costume styling in the play follows two basic principles: first, it takes into account the historical truth; second, it conforms to the personality of the character.For example, the lion pattern of Qi Wang ‘s clothing was restored from the Liao Dynasty fabric pattern, and his arrogant state was highlighted next to it; Zhao Guifei ‘s overshirt, referring to the portrait of Empress Du Tai, mother of Song Taizu; Emperor Xiao Ruirui ‘s coronation suit and the queen ‘s Zhai Yi, All derived from the portrait of Nanxun Temple in the Forbidden City; the phoenix crown made by Zhao Guifei only took five months to produce, and the scale of the whole drama exceeded 2,000 pieces of clothes, making “He Ting Hua Ting” an “exposition” of Song Dynasty costumes.  Lu Wenxi, played by the skirt Li Yitong, is the daughter of the civil official’s family and has been deeply rooted in Confucian cultural ideas since childhood.The styles, fabrics and ornaments of her clothes have seen more literature books and scrolls of calligraphy and painting in the Song Dynasty.The underskirt is the main dress of the Han Dynasty women’s clothing in the Song Dynasty. The short dress on the upper body and the skirt on the lower body are collectively called the underskirt, which is a typical “upper skirt” dress.The top is called “襦”, and the lower body is called “skirt”.Most of the uppers are half-arms with large breasts. The skirts of the Song Dynasty have six, eight, and twelve forms. The common feature is that they have many folds.The skirt in Song Palace is more pleated and dense, and is called a thousand-pleated skirt.The decoration on the skirt is more colorful, painted, valorized, gold embroidered and pearled.The skirt is divided into a waist waist skirt, a high waist skirt, and a chest breast skirt by the height of the skirt waist.In the Song Dynasty, the Chinese classical aesthetic spirit developed to the extreme. The freehand style of ink and wash landscapes, even the appreciation of flowers, also respected plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum, etc., by virtue of the high quality of people.So this time the collar embroidery of the upper jacket used a lot of traditional Song ornaments.  The sons of the Song Dynasty were long-sleeved, long-body, and the front and back of the clothes were not stacked under the arms.For the women at that time, “bandeau + braids” is the most typical dress.Women from all walks of life are accustomed to wearing a tube top and a coat.The outline of this kind of clothes is straight and straight. It wraps the human body into a piece without curves. It has a distinct difference from the Tang suit with a top collar, a wide skirt, and a gauze body sleeve shirt.In comparison, the costumes of the Tang people are flamboyant, while the costumes of the Song people are subtle and restrained, and there is a serious abstinence.This psychological orientation is related to the outstanding and strict ranks of the Song Dynasty, the absolute respect and despicability and subordination between the monarch and the minister, the father and the son, the husband and the woman.  However, although the palace costumes in the Song Dynasty were mainly narrow-sleeved, wide-sleeved and large-sleeved were still regarded as a sign of luxury.The Song Dynasty big-sleeved shirt, long skirt, and silk are the clothing styles left over from the late Tang and Five Dynasties. They were still popular during the Northern Song Dynasty, and were mostly worn by noble women.The clothing fabrics of the Song Dynasty are mainly silk.There are many kinds of silk textiles in the Song Dynasty, including damask, silk, satin, brocade, yarn, silk, silk and so on.The variety is different from the Tang Dynasty. Light and breathable Luo was the popular silk fabric at that time.Luo production in China reached its highest peak in the Song Dynasty.In the hot summer, especially in the south, Luo became the most commonly used high-grade silk fabrics in people’s daily lives.Many skirts are used in the play.  The emperor’s crown suit The Song court did not leave a portrait of the emperor wearing the crown suit (the dress worn by the ancient emperor Tianzi), and the costume team referred to the more important images of each dynasty. After combining, the dragon pattern of the Song Dynasty was used to adjust it.The emperor’s crown suit made some imagination.  Phoenix Crown None of the Phoenix Crowns on the portraits of the queens of the Song Dynasty are exactly the same, so the clothing team extracted the elements and combined to form a Phoenix Crown.Diancui is too luxurious, and the Song Dynasty imperial court issued a ban on jade, which stipulates that the kingfisher feathers cannot be used casually.Therefore, the phoenix crown in the play was not emerald, and lapis lazuli, turquoise and other mineral pigments were used.After the filigree process is finished, it is gold-plated and colored.The pearls on the phoenix crown are real. They are worn by hand. Although all the gems used on the phoenix crown are not very high, they are all real gems.  The Queen’s Zhai Yi (the highest-ranking dress of a concubine in ancient China) is also the same. Every portrait in the ancient paintings is different.  In Qi Wang’s armor dramas, all of Qi Wang’s armor is made of brass. First, knock on the model, open the mold, press it after opening the mold, and piece it together after pressing.The final result is very good, because it is very light, only 10 pounds, other people’s armor will be relatively heavy, there are 30 to 40 pounds.  Hats Song people wear hats on more formal occasions, so there is a huge demand for hats in the play, and they have always been quick-killing to make all hats.There are twenty or thirty styles of hats. As for the details, sometimes fold the towel, fold forward or upturn, the clothing team also made it through various paintings and looking for various references.  Curved Collar Scarf Curved Collar Scarf looks simple, it takes a lot of time to make it, a person can make up to two a day.After finishing it, you have to obey it. It ‘s not like cutting a circle and putting it on to make it smooth. It ‘s all curved. The pattern has been tried for almost half a month. You just need to wear it close to your body and it wo n’t warp. There is no way to reach this level.It can only be done manually by machine, so it is very slow.  Writing / Sauna, Night Net Liu Wei